Čínské jídlo a jeho receptury jsou opředeny stejným tajemstvím a exotičností jako cokoliv jiného, co se třeba jen vzdáleně dotkne této jedné z nejstarších kultur na zemi. Pravda, tu exotiku poněkud degraduje evropský či americký pojem „číny“. Tento komerční export v podobě masových nudliček s rýží však nemá s opravdovou čínskou kuchyní téměř nic společného. Jaká je tedy ta opravdová „ČÍNA“?
Netradiční předkrm
Než se dostaneme k našemu prvnímu gurmánskému zážitku, dovolím si malou předehru. Samozřejmě, že s jídlem bezprostředně souvisí.
Po dopoledním výletu na Victoria Peak (horu královny Viktorie), o němž se možná trochu víc rozepíši v dalším pokračování našeho seriálu, jsme se nalodili na jednu ze stovek, možná tisíců hongkongských džunek. Hned po nalodění jsem pohrdnul stínem turistického baldachýnu na zádi a zalehl jsem se svým foťákem na přídi ne právě prvotřídní loďky. Zážitky ale prvotřídní byly.
Vypluli jsme do zálivu nebo spíš průlivu mezi ostrovem Hong Kong a poloostrovem Kowloon s Novými Teritorii. Asi hodinová plavba byla plná zážitků a informací. Dozvěděli jsme se a na vlastní oči také přesvědčili (a trochu i na vlastní žaludek), že na vodě se žije prakticky stejně jako na souši. Šťastní majitelé lodí nejrůznějších velikostí na nich bydlí s celými rodinami, pořádají na nich grilování, párty a všechny rodinné slavnosti včetně svateb. Parkují s nimi natěsnáni vedle sebe jako my se svými automiláčky před paneláky a mnohdy nelze přesně rozlišit, kde končí sídliště džunek a kde začíná sídliště suchozemské.
Klasické menu tu nebylo
Po hodinovém mokrém dobrodružství jsme se rychlostí několika velmi málo uzlů přiblížili obřímu hausbótu, připomínajícímu tradiční čínský palác. Spoušť fotoaparátu nepřestávala tiše cvakat ani v okamžiku vylodění. Tady budeme dnes totiž obědvat. Ten plovoucí palác je vyhlášená hongkongská restaurace JUMBO!
Na molu nás přivítali všudypřítomní draci. Měli pro nás překvapení. Naše první kroky totiž nevedly do restaurace samotné, ale do jakéhosi podpalubí, kde jsme si měli vybrat svoje dnešní meníčko. Kvůli stoprocentní záruce čerstvosti – z živých ryb a živých plodů moře. Pro Evropana a zejména pro milovníka zvířat doslova surový zážitek, který vás přinutí začít přemýšlet o životě úplně jinak. Svého práva výběru a vyřčení ortelu nad živými zvířaty v nádrži jsem se bez jakéhokoliv přemlouvání vzdal. Pocit úlevy mi to ale nepřineslo.
Opravdový gurmánský zážitek
Po výstupu z rybích hrobek nás oslnil luxus restauračních prostor. Širokému schodišti se soškami zlatých psů pro štěstí vévodila obří mozaika s tradičním námětem. Nerozuměl jsem přesně našemu průvodci, ale jde nejspíš o jednu z nejstarších mozaik podobných rozměrů na světě. Ostatní atraktivní zákoutí plovoucí restaurace Jumbo nebylo povoleno fotografovat, takže zde nemohu představit ani císařské křeslo, které jeden nebo několik z mnoha čínských vládců kdysi použil, ani interiér privátních salonků, které sloužily při podobných osobních návštěvách vysokých císařských úředníků. Tato vybavení místností jsou velice stará, mají svoji historii a jsou, pochopitelně, i velmi drahá. Nelze se proto divit jejich přísné ochraně.
![](https://www.travon.cz/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Obr_15-1024x683.jpg)
Prostory samotné restaurace působily docela Evropsky. Podlouhlé stoly pro šest osob byly docela nudně seřazeny podél oken s výhledem na záliv. Vyhlídka byla jistě kouzelná, ovšem více zvědaví jsme byli na samotný oběd. Bylo proč. Předkrm z neznámé ryby v křupavé krustě, hlavní chod mořský okoun – delikátní, jemné, na jazyku se rozplývající masíčko a dezert, zasluhující nějakou uměleckou cenu za abstraktní design.
Po tomto art-gurmánském zážitku jsme se jen neradi loučili s nádhernou plovoucí restaurací Jumbo. Na cestu zpět zálivem jsme se naposledy ohlédli, propluli jsme okolo luxusní milionářské čtvrti se zaparkovanými jachtičkami a zakotvili u Jumbo přístavního mola. Tak ještě jedno, definitivně poslední ohlédnutí k „nástupišti“ a nostalgické povzdechnutí: „Trochu toho luxusu jsme si také úžili.”
Pravá Čína náš teprve čeká
Pravou Čínu jsme ale objevili až ve vnitrozemí. Po několika hodinách plavby Perlovou řekou jsme se ze stále ještě trochu evropského Hongkongu dostali do Kantonu! Tady bylo stravování diametrálně odlišné. Žádný předkrm, hlavní jídlo a dezert. Chodů bývalo mezi pěti až patnácti – podle toho, kdo byl pořadatelem oběda, či večeře. Také úspořádání místností a zejména stolů bylo jiné. Jedlo se většinou v salonku a stoly byly zásadně kulaté s vyvýšeným otočným středem. Na něj naše vždy usměvavé servírky pokládaly jednotlivá jídla na velkých mísách, z nichž si stolující nabírali do svých misek na co měli chuť a v množství, které byli schopni spořádat. Samozřejmě se jedlo výhradně hůlkami (včetně rýže), po několika dnech nám nedělalo problém nabírat jimi i jednotlivé klouzavé boby surové podzemnice olejné – u nás známé jako burské oříšky.
Lovení buráků v misce dvěma klacky nebylo ovšem jediným zážitkem z čínských restaurací, bufetů a domácností, které jsme rovněž měli tu čest navštívit. Zážitků větších i menších byla spousta, v pokračování článku zmíním alespoň několik z nich.
Na závěr tohoto dílu alespoň jeden. Při naší první večeři ve vnitrozemském Kantonu vládla skvělá atmosféra. Snad jsme k ní tak trochu přispěli i my – naučili jsme se děkovat po kantonsku, čímž jsme zcela odrovnali obsluhující personál. Drobnost, která bavila naše hostitele i obsluhující personál, po večeři vyústila v polibek na rozloučenou od jedné ze servírek. A to je Čína velmi, velmi konzervativní země, mládež nevyjímaje.
A co bude příště?
V pokračování povídání o dobrotách čínské kuchyně a o zážitcích okolo jídla se dozvíte například o restauraci U zlatého buddhy, o úpravách ptactva a drůbeže včetně zážitku s černou slepicí a o dalších, nejen kulinářských zážitcích z čínského vnitrozemí i z ostrova Formosa. Tak zase za týden!
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